The answer to Guinea's development problem: they're saying you need a work ethic.

ok, i need to vent.

just a little. or more like, a lot.

it's about this month called Ramadan.

now before i get attacked, i am culturally sensitive. i like muslims. i like islam. obvi, or i wouldn't be living on the side of a mountain eating by candlelight with them, or not eating at all during this holy-month. this is in no way an attack on religion.

So Ramadan is a month in the Islam faith that is pure and holy- Muslims fast starting at the 5am prayer until the 7pm prayer. Unmarried boys and girls aren't supposed to be spending alone-time together. Music is forbidden, and all the clubs are closed for these thirty days of pure purity.

So the majority of Guineans here will wake up at 4am, stuff their faces with food, pray, and go back to sleep until work (for those who have jobs). But this is my problem: they come to work exhausted. not only were they up at 4am, but they haven't eaten anything all day (and nothing but carbo-loaded the night before with rice, corn powder, potato powder, etc). And because they are so far below an optimal productivity-level, and because the women get the shit-end of the stick and have to prepare dinner for everyone starting at 4pm (for that 7pm meal time) work days end EARLY. Like at 3pm. Even at a reputable American NGO like where I work.

What kind of job decides to close shop 2 1/2 hours early for a month so women can go home and make dinner?!

Keep in mind that I live in a country now where nothing gets done. Work ethic levels don't even register with those of the most lazy high school students. You, at your fancy schmancy international NGO, have to submit a budget proposal too your big boss in America? Maybe you'll get around to it later, but it's been so busy, what with saying hello to your brother's third wife's second cousin's baby. And then you had to take off 2 days of work last week for 2 weddings, and then someone died and you had to present your condolances, and then Monday morning you had to go attend that baptism for a few hours ... really, there's just no time for work with such a packed social schedule.

It's bullshit.

So really, my frustrations don't really involve Ramdan. Until you take that packed social schedule and cram it into your half-days of work where people are too tired to work hard anyways. It is just incredible that an entire country can operate on such a half-assed motivational level. And I consider myself surrounded by some of the most hard-working, dedicated, Africans. But when I'm bending over backwards to do three jobs at once and show up early to work only to find that no one is in the office because EVERYONE decided to go to the same wedding, I roll my eyes with exasperation. How can a country reach its goal of development if people act like this?

I would also like to say that I have a newfound appreciation for all my Muslim friends participating in Ramadan in America ... because not only are they fasting without the mutual understanding of a thousand other hungry bellies, but they don't leave work early or give up on life for a month. You guys are strong. Well done, and good luck with the next 20 days.

I might also be in such a sour disposition becuase when I showed up to work at 8am this morning I learned that yes, it was time to cram 11 people in a normal SUV for a baptism. In I went, off-roading for 30 minutes to the village. Arriving there, the proud father (who I love) greets us all with a big smile- and then sends all the women into the house, and takes the men to where the actual ceremony-part takes place. What the hell? I crammed in a car, came to your village, all to see you and your baby and be present for your big day- and you redirect me to claw my eyes out due to excessive bordem in your house while the MEN get to participate? You think I enjoy sitting around in a concrete room in fancy clothes with other old ladies for hours that I cannot communicate with? Ridiculous. After a time, I heard some men cheering (looks like the show's over) and we got back in the car and came back to the office. And there wasn't even the consolation of good food, because its Ramadan. Not worth it.

Seriously folks, this is not Guinea's month. Work doesn't get done. People sleep-walk through their days like a bunch of zombies. And my bean-lady is no longer on the side of the street.

This time next year, I will be better prepared to live Guinean-style: pencil in 30 days of vacation, stock up on cans of beans and tuna fish, and hibernate.