Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Military Wack Attacks.

Alright, I know that all of you are probably glued to CNN waiting to hear the latest on the political situation in Guinea. But for the far and few between of you who have better things to do than turn your shortwave radio to BBC, I would like to take this opportunity to fill you in on the political happenings of GUINEA:

December 2008: The president goes MIA for a period of time. No one knows where he is. Then an announcement stating that he has died is made. A youngbuck military captain organizes a bloodless coup d’etat, seizes power, overthrows the constitution, and declares himself president. We welcome Dadis, for Dadis promises to return Guinea to democracy, will have elections ASAP.

ASAP: comes and goes. Election dates get scheduled, cancelled, rescheduled, pushed back. Dadis cracks down on drug trafficking, but if you ask me, at least the drug dealers had jobs. So in a sense, he raised the 99% unemployment rate. He insults foreign diplomats. He pays off youth to cheer for him in front of TV cameras. He promises he won’t pose as a candidate for presidential elections, but the entire nation calls him a liar. His military men roam the country with their guns thinking they’re God in camouflauge. (They even stopped me and my friends the other week while running, and were threatening to throw Souleymane in prison because he was wearing a camo tanktop. He begged and pleaded and swore to Allah that never again will he wear this shirt, which is a crying shame, because I know its his favorite.)

Last Friday: I drive through Mamou, and see HUNDREDS of police officers and soldiers. With big guns. They have innondated the city, and are posted all over the place.

Last Saturday: Dadis leaves the capital Conakry for the FIRST time since he declared himself president. He decides that he’s going to make an appearance in Mamou (my hometown) and Labe (3 hrs north) to try and convince people to stop hating him. I woke up to the sound of a helicopter over my house and people yelling. Wait- Guinea has a helicopter? Anyway Dadis goes to these cities; rumor has it in Labe everyone purposefully stayed in their homes so as NOT to welcome him, and that soldiers took buses to surrounding villages paying people to come fill up the stadium and cheer for him, giving TV viewers the impression of popularity. He was here in Mamou, there were small groups of protestors (who may or may not have tried to open my car door) and things were calm and cool.

Monday: Two weeks earlier, a political demonstration had been organized, with the underlying message: Dadis, do NOT run for president at the end of January. Dadis said that the demonstrations were prohibitied. People went anyways. The military went buck wild. Shot 157 dead. 1,200 others injured. Women were raped and perversely abused at the site of the protests. Military stole random things (like my friend’s cell phones) and were actually using knives and bayonets.

Tuesday: Shortly after arriving at work, someone runs into our office saying that people have begun protesting in town here in Mamou. First we get put on “lockdown” at the office, but soon after we return home. Vehicles are hidden around town (so protestors can’t damage them) and I get a little freaked out. Protestors are fine, burning tires don’t mean a thing, but if the military starts running around with guns, that’s when all hell breaks loose. I stayed home for the rest of the day. The military never went out. Protestors went home. Mamou is cool, calm and collected. Mom and Dad, I repeat, Mamou is cool, calm and collected.

Wednesday (today): Today and tomorrow are declared holidays to honor the 160 lives lost. Things seem to have greatly calmed down. Peace Corps has been in contact with us, they’re doing their job. No one is in any danger as long as they’re not leading demonstrations with a bunch of pumped-up youth. And like I was telling a friend, at least we're not stationed in some boring country that has no excitement.

For the CNN version, http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/09/29/guinea.protest.deaths/index.html

Political excitement aside, things here in Mamou are great. Work evacuations, days honoring the dead and another random holiday on Friday are making work non-existant, but I’m adapting to this no-work all-play schedule.

Friday I head out to run a 10k race organized by another volunteer, so I’m really looking forward to that! Afterwards, if things cool down, I’m hoping to spend next week in Conakry with some friends, doing some work and vacation planning. Alright well that’s what I’ve got for the moment, I love you all and appreciate each and every letter/phonecall/package/facebook message that gets sent my way.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Espoir de S'Ouvrir au Monde - the kids who make me fall in love with Mamou (almost) everyday.

My last blog entry was spewing with frustrations in regards to how Ramadan obliterates the sub-standard work ethic possessed by many of the Guineans I’m working with, but, as we all know- generalizations are dangerous.

After storming at of work, exasperated as women at the office traded real work to doling out goodie bags of rice mush from that baptism we all skipped work to attend, I decided I needed to press ‘pause’ on World Education for the rest of the week and focus on working with an association that has become the most exciting part of work in Peace Corps.

A group of three youth approached me when I first moved to Mamou asking to do a project together. “What kind of project?” Their response was anything, just something to do to help their community. Wary of groups of youth asking to work for free, I told them “let’s wait a few months before jumping into anything.” This group of kids persisted, continuously asking to work together, and at the same time demonstrating their commitment to do something. Finally I gave in- “okay, tell whoever is interested to meet at my house tomorrow night.”

The next night I was arranging my family room to seat about eight people, lighting candles, when all of a sudden a horde of people walked through the door … far more then eight. THIRTY young people came into my house that night ready to make some moves in this mountainside city! After several lengthy discussions over the course of many meetings, the association Espoir de S’Ouvrir au Monde (roughly translated into ‘hope of opening up to the world’) was born. ESM elected officers, set up bi-weekly meetings, started collecting membership dues and drafted logos and vision statements.

ESM is now an association that is fully managed by youth, working to ameliorate education for youth all over the world. We’re starting here in Mamou first. However … and this is the exciting part … our first project will be to host a conference teaching and promoting leadership. I left America as Obama was taking that nation by storm and came to Guinea in a time when a new dictator, Dadis took Guinea ... by storm. But his storm was more coup d’état style. So more than ever, the cry for leadership is loud and desperate, and it’s up to the youth to start learning now 1. what leadership is, and 2. how they can develop into positive leaders to change their communities.

So for all of you who’ve been wondering what in the world I’ve been doing when not watching break-dance fighting or nearly dying in bush taxis, this association is the heart of my work here. I just wanted to wait until things were rolling before I mentioned these kids. Because they are awesome!

Which brings me to why I admitted generalizations were dangerous- after stepping back from my ‘real job’ where workers were photo-stalking (not even on facebook … the computer’s previous owner had left photos on the hard drive, so these stalkers didn’t even know who they were stalking) I turned my attention to ESM. And these kids, despite the fact that they too are fasting all day and now staying up from midnight until 2am reciting the Koran, are meeting DAILY to get the project development committee up and rolling. So when a group of 13 boys and girls can stop eating, pray until 2am, sleep for 4 hours, pray, sleep for 1 ½ hours and then come work without pay for an association every day for a week … I can only speak about a work ethic and a determination that is unprecedented. And working with them and teaching them how to host a leadership conference is about far more than hosting the conference itself- these kids working on the project have been placed into positions of leadership with real responsibilities, and we’re working side-by-side learning things from how to manage money to how to set goals. They are learning how to enter and conduct themselves during meetings with Guinean authorities and I even had the privilege to take some of them into their city’s bank for the very first time to inquire about opening an account. These are experiences that they will keep with them for the rest of their lives!

I am now back in deep with World Education and continuing work every day with ESM. Plus 4 English classes a week as well as computer trainings. The schedule is packed, but it’s fun. I’d also like to mention here that my culinary techniques are evolving quite nicely- in addition to jarring a killer pineapple salsa, last weekend a friend and I learned to make dumplings. I think going back to an American kitchen where things are pre-made and you just defrost or bake or microwave food is going to be selection-overload. I’ve become adept in making delicacies out of the basic ingredients (ex- flour and salt and eggs). And thanks to Dad’s endless supply of tuna fish I think I can make a can of Chicken of the Sea into a dish more elegant than anyone has imagined possible. So yes, personal accomplishments are surmounting.

Thanks again to everyone for all the WONDERFUL packages and cards and letters!!! My walls are getting full with pictures and cards (and ridiculous 2ft American Flag cards that warm my heart and soul) and I look forward to the “mail run” day with unwavering and heightened anticipation. Also, congrats to Emilie who had a beautiful little girl and Lindsey who got engaged!!! I trust everyone reading this is doing their part to love and ENJOY America a little bit extra every day for me. Much love. OoOoOoo (that’s goodbye in Pular … just say the letter “O” and bring your voice up and down a few times).

Monday, August 31, 2009

The answer to Guinea's development problem: they're saying you need a work ethic.

ok, i need to vent.

just a little. or more like, a lot.

it's about this month called Ramadan.

now before i get attacked, i am culturally sensitive. i like muslims. i like islam. obvi, or i wouldn't be living on the side of a mountain eating by candlelight with them, or not eating at all during this holy-month. this is in no way an attack on religion.

So Ramadan is a month in the Islam faith that is pure and holy- Muslims fast starting at the 5am prayer until the 7pm prayer. Unmarried boys and girls aren't supposed to be spending alone-time together. Music is forbidden, and all the clubs are closed for these thirty days of pure purity.

So the majority of Guineans here will wake up at 4am, stuff their faces with food, pray, and go back to sleep until work (for those who have jobs). But this is my problem: they come to work exhausted. not only were they up at 4am, but they haven't eaten anything all day (and nothing but carbo-loaded the night before with rice, corn powder, potato powder, etc). And because they are so far below an optimal productivity-level, and because the women get the shit-end of the stick and have to prepare dinner for everyone starting at 4pm (for that 7pm meal time) work days end EARLY. Like at 3pm. Even at a reputable American NGO like where I work.

What kind of job decides to close shop 2 1/2 hours early for a month so women can go home and make dinner?!

Keep in mind that I live in a country now where nothing gets done. Work ethic levels don't even register with those of the most lazy high school students. You, at your fancy schmancy international NGO, have to submit a budget proposal too your big boss in America? Maybe you'll get around to it later, but it's been so busy, what with saying hello to your brother's third wife's second cousin's baby. And then you had to take off 2 days of work last week for 2 weddings, and then someone died and you had to present your condolances, and then Monday morning you had to go attend that baptism for a few hours ... really, there's just no time for work with such a packed social schedule.

It's bullshit.

So really, my frustrations don't really involve Ramdan. Until you take that packed social schedule and cram it into your half-days of work where people are too tired to work hard anyways. It is just incredible that an entire country can operate on such a half-assed motivational level. And I consider myself surrounded by some of the most hard-working, dedicated, Africans. But when I'm bending over backwards to do three jobs at once and show up early to work only to find that no one is in the office because EVERYONE decided to go to the same wedding, I roll my eyes with exasperation. How can a country reach its goal of development if people act like this?

I would also like to say that I have a newfound appreciation for all my Muslim friends participating in Ramadan in America ... because not only are they fasting without the mutual understanding of a thousand other hungry bellies, but they don't leave work early or give up on life for a month. You guys are strong. Well done, and good luck with the next 20 days.

I might also be in such a sour disposition becuase when I showed up to work at 8am this morning I learned that yes, it was time to cram 11 people in a normal SUV for a baptism. In I went, off-roading for 30 minutes to the village. Arriving there, the proud father (who I love) greets us all with a big smile- and then sends all the women into the house, and takes the men to where the actual ceremony-part takes place. What the hell? I crammed in a car, came to your village, all to see you and your baby and be present for your big day- and you redirect me to claw my eyes out due to excessive bordem in your house while the MEN get to participate? You think I enjoy sitting around in a concrete room in fancy clothes with other old ladies for hours that I cannot communicate with? Ridiculous. After a time, I heard some men cheering (looks like the show's over) and we got back in the car and came back to the office. And there wasn't even the consolation of good food, because its Ramadan. Not worth it.

Seriously folks, this is not Guinea's month. Work doesn't get done. People sleep-walk through their days like a bunch of zombies. And my bean-lady is no longer on the side of the street.

This time next year, I will be better prepared to live Guinean-style: pencil in 30 days of vacation, stock up on cans of beans and tuna fish, and hibernate.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Break Dance Fighting Does Exist

More and more my "fake life" feeling in Guinea fades away, and realities of my current life style start to feel real. However, there are still times when the ridiculousness of what I'm surrounded by sets in, and I have a "omygosh I love that I'm in Guinea" moment. Take last night for example:

After several weeks of intense work, nonstop housevisits and 24/7 "just to say hi" phonecalls, I was exhausted. I mean, you know that tiredness that makes you break down and cry and get sick exhaustion? I had that. So I decided to escape for the weekend to Conakry. So last night as I was watching the sun set on the Atlantic and thinking "somewhere on the other side of this ocean are my family and friends" I decided to take in my surroundings. And this is what I saw:

1. A prostitute and her white client behind me
2. A man in whitey tighties running around like a lunatic on the beach. Lunges, pushups, squats, and literally running around in circles. Apparently he never stops. And for the 3 hours I was there, he didn't. This little dude was quite buff, yet quite insane.
3. To my right 3 lovely Lebanese young bucks. One of them thought it would be appropriate to sit directly facing me, spread out, and spend the evening staring into my eyes. It was intense. I avoided most of it. Although I will admit, he was gorgeous.
4. In front of me were a bunch of rastamen. One of them (the one with 2 feet of dreads hidden beneath a rasta "top hat") played with one of the world's most famous rastamen (aka reggae men) named Takana Zion. So these guys, with their guitars out and dreadlocks, were rockstars. Me and my girls were star-struck.
5. In front of me on the beach (to the right of the whitey-tighty energizer bunny) was, I kid you not, a ring of BREAK DANCE FIGHTING. These two guys drew a sumo-wrestling-sized-circle in the sand and began their faux-attacks, including backflips and many cartwheels. This went on for several hours. It was kind of like a scene from a bad action movie with two short black dudes, ripped muscles, and braided hair are smiling and doing those high-karate kicks you probably practice when you're by yourself at home in the kitchen when you want to see how flexible you really are. It stars with a circle-walk, hands in the middle, eye contact. Throw in a fake out kick, your opponent does a cartwheel. Stand back up. High kick, pretend fall to the ground where you b-boy rock, then do a back flip to standing position. Repeat. When Mr. Whitey Tighties wasn't doing pushups he would run laps around the perimeter of the circle clapping and singing African songs.

So although I've become better acclimated to Guinean life, moments when I'm surrounded by international superstars, hoes, men running around in underwear on the beach, and the occasional break dance fight do still catch me off guard and make me laugh. A lot.

I will also let you all in on another fun piece of information:
eventually the prostitute and her client left, it got too dark to break dance fight, Mr. Whitey Tighties tired out and put some clothes on, and the beautiful staring contest ended. So the excitement died down and it became like a "normal" bar on the beach. Except for the reggae stars. Being with 2 other white girls, there was a mutal understanding of what possibilities could lay ahead. A plan was conceived with that wonderful telepathy females possess, and within 10 minutes we got invited to sit at the reggae all-star table. Victory. Rounds of drinks on the rockstars, and reggae music was played on the guitar. It was incredible. I mean, I've been around a lot of guitars and guitarists, but never have I heard reggae played and have reggae men sing in my presence. It was awesome- 7 Bob Marleys, in the flesh.

Anyways that was last night. Work is driving me back to Mamou (about 4-6 hours away, depending how much the military wants to harass you) and I'm going to have an intense rest of the week ahead.

Also, during the writing of this, my World Education boss called to let me know his wife had a baby! Please, I eat rice and sauce at this man's house every day, I hang out with his wife, every day, and have done so for the past 7 months- and NO ONE tells me she's pregnant! (I figured it was either a baby or she was eating too many white carbs.) People are crazy here, but I love 'em.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Cribs: MAMOU


The tour starts with the family room, you might enjoy knowing that the turquoise patterned table cloth matches the curtains and bulletin board you see hanging accented with pink ribbon, all made by yours truly.Here is what I call the kitchen. Minus of course, the fridge, dish washer, oven, and kitchen sink. The hanging "calabashes" I made myself, and prevents mice and such from eating my food. White bucket contraption? That's where us volunteers have been trained to filter and bleach water to avoid parasites and worms.


Here's the bathroom, furnished with a shower, toliet and sink. None of which function, seeing as I don't have running water. Optimistic construction workers? The buckets you see are a staple of any Guinean household ... that's where the showers/laundry/toilet flushing power comes from.
And the bedroom ... furnished with a nice cubbyhole/basket system that I thought up, drew, and handed to my carpenter. Hanging mini-mirrors, thanks to the Chinese invasion of this country ... I had to peel off the sexy Chinese lady stickers that were attached originally. Also home made. You can the wonderful bed and the princess canopy, aka mosquito net. And if you've sent me a card look closely in the background ... you'll see it hanging up on the wall.

Well that concludes my humble abode. 1 bath, 1 family room, 1 bedroom, and 1/2 kitchen. Front terrace, and a stellar view (posted earlier). Soon to come: strawberry fields accented with sunflowers when you walk out the door. in-sha-ALLAH.