Alright, I know that all of you are probably glued to CNN waiting to hear the latest on the political situation in Guinea. But for the far and few between of you who have better things to do than turn your shortwave radio to BBC, I would like to take this opportunity to fill you in on the political happenings of GUINEA:
December 2008: The president goes MIA for a period of time. No one knows where he is. Then an announcement stating that he has died is made. A youngbuck military captain organizes a bloodless coup d’etat, seizes power, overthrows the constitution, and declares himself president. We welcome Dadis, for Dadis promises to return Guinea to democracy, will have elections ASAP.
ASAP: comes and goes. Election dates get scheduled, cancelled, rescheduled, pushed back. Dadis cracks down on drug trafficking, but if you ask me, at least the drug dealers had jobs. So in a sense, he raised the 99% unemployment rate. He insults foreign diplomats. He pays off youth to cheer for him in front of TV cameras. He promises he won’t pose as a candidate for presidential elections, but the entire nation calls him a liar. His military men roam the country with their guns thinking they’re God in camouflauge. (They even stopped me and my friends the other week while running, and were threatening to throw Souleymane in prison because he was wearing a camo tanktop. He begged and pleaded and swore to Allah that never again will he wear this shirt, which is a crying shame, because I know its his favorite.)
Last Friday: I drive through Mamou, and see HUNDREDS of police officers and soldiers. With big guns. They have innondated the city, and are posted all over the place.
Last Saturday: Dadis leaves the capital Conakry for the FIRST time since he declared himself president. He decides that he’s going to make an appearance in Mamou (my hometown) and Labe (3 hrs north) to try and convince people to stop hating him. I woke up to the sound of a helicopter over my house and people yelling. Wait- Guinea has a helicopter? Anyway Dadis goes to these cities; rumor has it in Labe everyone purposefully stayed in their homes so as NOT to welcome him, and that soldiers took buses to surrounding villages paying people to come fill up the stadium and cheer for him, giving TV viewers the impression of popularity. He was here in Mamou, there were small groups of protestors (who may or may not have tried to open my car door) and things were calm and cool.
Monday: Two weeks earlier, a political demonstration had been organized, with the underlying message: Dadis, do NOT run for president at the end of January. Dadis said that the demonstrations were prohibitied. People went anyways. The military went buck wild. Shot 157 dead. 1,200 others injured. Women were raped and perversely abused at the site of the protests. Military stole random things (like my friend’s cell phones) and were actually using knives and bayonets.
Tuesday: Shortly after arriving at work, someone runs into our office saying that people have begun protesting in town here in Mamou. First we get put on “lockdown” at the office, but soon after we return home. Vehicles are hidden around town (so protestors can’t damage them) and I get a little freaked out. Protestors are fine, burning tires don’t mean a thing, but if the military starts running around with guns, that’s when all hell breaks loose. I stayed home for the rest of the day. The military never went out. Protestors went home. Mamou is cool, calm and collected. Mom and Dad, I repeat, Mamou is cool, calm and collected.
Wednesday (today): Today and tomorrow are declared holidays to honor the 160 lives lost. Things seem to have greatly calmed down. Peace Corps has been in contact with us, they’re doing their job. No one is in any danger as long as they’re not leading demonstrations with a bunch of pumped-up youth. And like I was telling a friend, at least we're not stationed in some boring country that has no excitement.
For the CNN version, http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/09/29/guinea.protest.deaths/index.html
Political excitement aside, things here in Mamou are great. Work evacuations, days honoring the dead and another random holiday on Friday are making work non-existant, but I’m adapting to this no-work all-play schedule.
Friday I head out to run a 10k race organized by another volunteer, so I’m really looking forward to that! Afterwards, if things cool down, I’m hoping to spend next week in Conakry with some friends, doing some work and vacation planning. Alright well that’s what I’ve got for the moment, I love you all and appreciate each and every letter/phonecall/package/facebook message that gets sent my way.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Monday, September 14, 2009
Espoir de S'Ouvrir au Monde - the kids who make me fall in love with Mamou (almost) everyday.
My last blog entry was spewing with frustrations in regards to how Ramadan obliterates the sub-standard work ethic possessed by many of the Guineans I’m working with, but, as we all know- generalizations are dangerous.
After storming at of work, exasperated as women at the office traded real work to doling out goodie bags of rice mush from that baptism we all skipped work to attend, I decided I needed to press ‘pause’ on World Education for the rest of the week and focus on working with an association that has become the most exciting part of work in Peace Corps.
A group of three youth approached me when I first moved to Mamou asking to do a project together. “What kind of project?” Their response was anything, just something to do to help their community. Wary of groups of youth asking to work for free, I told them “let’s wait a few months before jumping into anything.” This group of kids persisted, continuously asking to work together, and at the same time demonstrating their commitment to do something. Finally I gave in- “okay, tell whoever is interested to meet at my house tomorrow night.”
The next night I was arranging my family room to seat about eight people, lighting candles, when all of a sudden a horde of people walked through the door … far more then eight. THIRTY young people came into my house that night ready to make some moves in this mountainside city! After several lengthy discussions over the course of many meetings, the association Espoir de S’Ouvrir au Monde (roughly translated into ‘hope of opening up to the world’) was born. ESM elected officers, set up bi-weekly meetings, started collecting membership dues and drafted logos and vision statements.
ESM is now an association that is fully managed by youth, working to ameliorate education for youth all over the world. We’re starting here in Mamou first. However … and this is the exciting part … our first project will be to host a conference teaching and promoting leadership. I left America as Obama was taking that nation by storm and came to Guinea in a time when a new dictator, Dadis took Guinea ... by storm. But his storm was more coup d’état style. So more than ever, the cry for leadership is loud and desperate, and it’s up to the youth to start learning now 1. what leadership is, and 2. how they can develop into positive leaders to change their communities.
So for all of you who’ve been wondering what in the world I’ve been doing when not watching break-dance fighting or nearly dying in bush taxis, this association is the heart of my work here. I just wanted to wait until things were rolling before I mentioned these kids. Because they are awesome!
Which brings me to why I admitted generalizations were dangerous- after stepping back from my ‘real job’ where workers were photo-stalking (not even on facebook … the computer’s previous owner had left photos on the hard drive, so these stalkers didn’t even know who they were stalking) I turned my attention to ESM. And these kids, despite the fact that they too are fasting all day and now staying up from midnight until 2am reciting the Koran, are meeting DAILY to get the project development committee up and rolling. So when a group of 13 boys and girls can stop eating, pray until 2am, sleep for 4 hours, pray, sleep for 1 ½ hours and then come work without pay for an association every day for a week … I can only speak about a work ethic and a determination that is unprecedented. And working with them and teaching them how to host a leadership conference is about far more than hosting the conference itself- these kids working on the project have been placed into positions of leadership with real responsibilities, and we’re working side-by-side learning things from how to manage money to how to set goals. They are learning how to enter and conduct themselves during meetings with Guinean authorities and I even had the privilege to take some of them into their city’s bank for the very first time to inquire about opening an account. These are experiences that they will keep with them for the rest of their lives!
I am now back in deep with World Education and continuing work every day with ESM. Plus 4 English classes a week as well as computer trainings. The schedule is packed, but it’s fun. I’d also like to mention here that my culinary techniques are evolving quite nicely- in addition to jarring a killer pineapple salsa, last weekend a friend and I learned to make dumplings. I think going back to an American kitchen where things are pre-made and you just defrost or bake or microwave food is going to be selection-overload. I’ve become adept in making delicacies out of the basic ingredients (ex- flour and salt and eggs). And thanks to Dad’s endless supply of tuna fish I think I can make a can of Chicken of the Sea into a dish more elegant than anyone has imagined possible. So yes, personal accomplishments are surmounting.
Thanks again to everyone for all the WONDERFUL packages and cards and letters!!! My walls are getting full with pictures and cards (and ridiculous 2ft American Flag cards that warm my heart and soul) and I look forward to the “mail run” day with unwavering and heightened anticipation. Also, congrats to Emilie who had a beautiful little girl and Lindsey who got engaged!!! I trust everyone reading this is doing their part to love and ENJOY America a little bit extra every day for me. Much love. OoOoOoo (that’s goodbye in Pular … just say the letter “O” and bring your voice up and down a few times).
After storming at of work, exasperated as women at the office traded real work to doling out goodie bags of rice mush from that baptism we all skipped work to attend, I decided I needed to press ‘pause’ on World Education for the rest of the week and focus on working with an association that has become the most exciting part of work in Peace Corps.
A group of three youth approached me when I first moved to Mamou asking to do a project together. “What kind of project?” Their response was anything, just something to do to help their community. Wary of groups of youth asking to work for free, I told them “let’s wait a few months before jumping into anything.” This group of kids persisted, continuously asking to work together, and at the same time demonstrating their commitment to do something. Finally I gave in- “okay, tell whoever is interested to meet at my house tomorrow night.”
The next night I was arranging my family room to seat about eight people, lighting candles, when all of a sudden a horde of people walked through the door … far more then eight. THIRTY young people came into my house that night ready to make some moves in this mountainside city! After several lengthy discussions over the course of many meetings, the association Espoir de S’Ouvrir au Monde (roughly translated into ‘hope of opening up to the world’) was born. ESM elected officers, set up bi-weekly meetings, started collecting membership dues and drafted logos and vision statements.
ESM is now an association that is fully managed by youth, working to ameliorate education for youth all over the world. We’re starting here in Mamou first. However … and this is the exciting part … our first project will be to host a conference teaching and promoting leadership. I left America as Obama was taking that nation by storm and came to Guinea in a time when a new dictator, Dadis took Guinea ... by storm. But his storm was more coup d’état style. So more than ever, the cry for leadership is loud and desperate, and it’s up to the youth to start learning now 1. what leadership is, and 2. how they can develop into positive leaders to change their communities.
So for all of you who’ve been wondering what in the world I’ve been doing when not watching break-dance fighting or nearly dying in bush taxis, this association is the heart of my work here. I just wanted to wait until things were rolling before I mentioned these kids. Because they are awesome!
Which brings me to why I admitted generalizations were dangerous- after stepping back from my ‘real job’ where workers were photo-stalking (not even on facebook … the computer’s previous owner had left photos on the hard drive, so these stalkers didn’t even know who they were stalking) I turned my attention to ESM. And these kids, despite the fact that they too are fasting all day and now staying up from midnight until 2am reciting the Koran, are meeting DAILY to get the project development committee up and rolling. So when a group of 13 boys and girls can stop eating, pray until 2am, sleep for 4 hours, pray, sleep for 1 ½ hours and then come work without pay for an association every day for a week … I can only speak about a work ethic and a determination that is unprecedented. And working with them and teaching them how to host a leadership conference is about far more than hosting the conference itself- these kids working on the project have been placed into positions of leadership with real responsibilities, and we’re working side-by-side learning things from how to manage money to how to set goals. They are learning how to enter and conduct themselves during meetings with Guinean authorities and I even had the privilege to take some of them into their city’s bank for the very first time to inquire about opening an account. These are experiences that they will keep with them for the rest of their lives!
I am now back in deep with World Education and continuing work every day with ESM. Plus 4 English classes a week as well as computer trainings. The schedule is packed, but it’s fun. I’d also like to mention here that my culinary techniques are evolving quite nicely- in addition to jarring a killer pineapple salsa, last weekend a friend and I learned to make dumplings. I think going back to an American kitchen where things are pre-made and you just defrost or bake or microwave food is going to be selection-overload. I’ve become adept in making delicacies out of the basic ingredients (ex- flour and salt and eggs). And thanks to Dad’s endless supply of tuna fish I think I can make a can of Chicken of the Sea into a dish more elegant than anyone has imagined possible. So yes, personal accomplishments are surmounting.
Thanks again to everyone for all the WONDERFUL packages and cards and letters!!! My walls are getting full with pictures and cards (and ridiculous 2ft American Flag cards that warm my heart and soul) and I look forward to the “mail run” day with unwavering and heightened anticipation. Also, congrats to Emilie who had a beautiful little girl and Lindsey who got engaged!!! I trust everyone reading this is doing their part to love and ENJOY America a little bit extra every day for me. Much love. OoOoOoo (that’s goodbye in Pular … just say the letter “O” and bring your voice up and down a few times).
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